Electric Drain Valve Kit. Includes:. Getting Started. Your electric drain valve kit will allow you to drain the moisture from your tank with the push of a button from inside the cab of your vehicle. Let's start by locating our solenoid valve within t

Electric Drain Valve Kit<hr>Includes:<ul><li style="font-family: Inter;">Stainless Steel 3/8&quot; Solenoid Valve</li><li style="font-family: Inter;">Push Button</li><li style="font-family: Inter;">1x 1/4&quot; NPT x 3/8&quot; PTC Fitting</li><li style="font-family: Inter;">1x 3/8&quot; NPT x 3/8&quot; PTC Fitting</li><li style="font-family: Inter;">3/8&quot; x 1/4&quot; Reducer Bushing</li><li style="font-family: Inter;">10 Feet of 3/8&quot; air line</li><li style="font-family: Inter;">20 Feet of 18ga Wire</li></ul><img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/undefined-f9118647-cffb-46c9-875a-324f56d6177d" style="width: 300px;" class="fr-fic fr-fil fr-dib"><hr>Getting StartedYour electric drain valve kit will allow you to drain the moisture from your tank with the push of a button from inside the cab of your vehicle.&#xA0;Let&apos;s start by locating our solenoid valve within the kit.<img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/undefined-658fc4ba-6982-4754-9a51-5241655d7be0" style="width: 300px;" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-fil">This valve will need to be installed close enough to the air tank so that we can run our air line to it from the drain port on the tank itself. The moisture will dump from the outlet side of this valve so you may want to point it down to the ground so that it isn&apos;t spraying towards the vehicle.At this point, we can go ahead and locate the 1/4&quot; NPT x 3/8&quot; PTC fitting. It should look like the image below:&#xA0; <img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/undefined-64a3cb34-f7fc-4e84-99c3-0c949863c3eb" style="width: 300px;" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-fil">This fitting MUST be plumbed into the bottom-most port on the tank. This is not always the port in between the legs of the tank. If you mount the tank sideways, this fitting would be plumbed into one of the ports facing down to the ground. This is essential for this kit to work, as gravity will pull the water to the bottom of the tank over time. If this fitting is mounted on the side of the tank, no water will come out when you press the button.<hr>PlumbingNow that we have the tank portion of this install taken care of, let&apos;s move onto the valve. We can now plumb the supplied 3/8&quot; NPT x 3/8&quot; PTC fitting into the inlet portion of the valve. This is important because the valve is directional. If you plumb the inlet fitting to the wrong side, this valve will not hold pressure and your tank will leak constantly. The inlet side of the valve can be found by simply looking at the valve itself. Cast onto the valve is an arrow. The air flow needs to go in the direction that the arrow points. The image below shows where you can usually find the arrow on these valves:&#xA0; <img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/undefined-2e6d49f3-2aac-42d3-b781-42ee7915f5c5" style="width: 500px;" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-fil">In this image, the arrow points towards&#xA0;the outlet on the valve. The arrow ALWAYS points towards the outlet on the valve. Take your 3/8&quot; NPT x 3/8&quot; PTC fitting and plumb it into the side of the valve that faces away from the arrow. From here, you may run the suppled 3/8&quot; air line out to the valve from the fitting on the tank. Simply press the line into each fitting on the tank and the valve.<hr>Finishing UpNow that our valve is in place and the line has been plumbed to it from the tank, we can use the supplied 3/8&quot; NPT x 1/4&quot; FNPT reducer bushing into the outlet portion of the valve. This will slow down the flow of air out of the valve so that you don&apos;t lose all of your air in the tank. At this point, you are done plumbing our drain valve kit, and the valve will need to be wired to our push-button.<hr>WiringThe drain valve will be wired to a push-button that can be pressed from inside the cab to release the moisture from the tank. The wiring for this valve is pretty straightforward.<img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/undefined-be0e5b7f-11a8-4e53-ba1a-339f7c751414" style="width: 550px;" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-fil">This valve has two leads that come off of it. It does not matter which wire you decide to use as the positive lead.Take one of the leads and route it over to the frame of the vehicle as a ground. Alternatively, you can run this to the negative terminal on the battery. The opposite lead can be ran up to one lead on the push-button. Finally, take the opposite end of your push-button and route it to a fused power source capable of handling a 10A load or greater. If you are installing this drain valve with one of our kits, you could simply tie it into the same fuse connected to your battery that supplies the compressor with power. Once connected, press the button and listen for a &apos;click&apos; from the valve. The clicking sound indicates that it is working properly.Start your vehicle and pressurize the tank. You can test this valve by pressing the button a few times and checking to ensure air escapes from it when the button is pressed.Your drain valve kit is now installed and ready for use.

How to: Install Electric Drain Valve Kit

Tire Inflation Kit. Getting Started. Our Tire Inflation Kit comes with a 30-foot coil hose, a tire inflation gun, a mount for your air chuck, and a small kit to add an air chuck to your vehicle (air source relocation kit). Air Source Relocation Kit.

Tire Inflation Kit<hr>Getting StartedOur Tire Inflation Kit comes with a 30-foot coil hose, a tire inflation gun, a mount for your air chuck, and a small kit to add an air chuck to your vehicle (air source relocation kit).&#xA0;<img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/90007-4efc11b5-8ee4-450d-ac70-6e305b221d73.jpg" style="width: 300px;" class="fr-fic fr-fil fr-dib">Air Source Relocation Kit<img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/undefined-5a1ef8f3-9b0b-44b3-b4fc-22bc3268db80" style="width: 300px;" class="fr-fic fr-fil fr-dib">Tire Inflation Gun<img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/undefined-e3badcc7-a8f8-4748-ad16-eba020f49598" style="width: 300px;" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-fil">Coil Hose<hr>PlumbingLet&apos;s start with the Air Source Relocation kit. This kit comes with a 15&apos; section of 1/4&quot; air line, two 1/4&quot; brass compression fittings, and a quick disconnect stud with chuck. The stud can be set aside for now. Let&apos;s focus on the two brass fittings and air chuck that come with this kit.<img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/undefined-c497b659-e81a-4a91-a5dd-26fddb789bee" style="width: 300px;" class="fr-fic fr-fil fr-dib">You will need to plumb one of these brass fittings into our air tank. These are designed to fit in a 1/4&quot; NPT port. Start by plumbing one of these fittings into a 1/4&quot; port on your tank*. Once complete, we can then start looking for a good spot to mount our air chuck.&#xA0;*5-Gallon tanks and larger will require a 1/2&quot; NPT x 1/4&quot; FNPT Reducer to use this kit.<hr>Mounting the air chuckThe air chuck can be mounted in any location that is convenient for you. We typically see the chuck mounted on the rear bumper of the vehicle when installed, for easy access. Once you have decided on a mounting location for the air chuck, we can assemble our mounting bracket for the chuck.<img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/undefined-3fe70cdc-dd5c-469e-841b-ffdb499a98d5" style="width: 300px;" class="fr-fic fr-fil fr-dib">Position your air chuck on the outer portion of the bracket, and thread the brass fitting into the chuck from the inside of the bracket. It should look like the image to the left when completed. You can use a wrench to tighten the fitting into the chuck until it sits tight with the bracket.Now that your air chuck and bracket are prepared, we can use the two supplied screws to secure the bracket for the vehicle. You can use a drill with a Phillips-style bit to finish installing your mounting screws for the bracket.<hr>Getting Air to the ChuckThis last step is the easiest one to complete. Now that our air chuck is in place, we need to plumb air out to it. We can use the supplied 1/4&quot; air line to run air from the tank out to the chuck.Start by removing the nut from the compression fitting. Take your 1/4&quot; line, and insert the line through the center of the nut, with the threads facing towards the end of your air line. (see image below) You can then seat the airline over the barb on the fitting. It will take some force to get this in place.&#xA0;<img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/undefined-ccc3eb0e-d683-4e66-a5b7-f8e36390070c" style="width: 300px;" class="fr-fic fr-fil fr-dib">It should look similar to this once you have completed the steps above. At this point, slide the nut down to the brass fitting and tighten it up over the line. It will be a bit hard to tighten, and a wrench can be used to fully torque this fitting down. Make absolutely sure the line is all the way over the barb, as it will leak if not seated fully.&#xA0;To finish your install, you can repeat this process for the compression fitting on the air chuck. Once tightened up, start your vehicle and allow the tank to fill up. Check each fitting for leaks and adjust as needed.&#xA0;<hr>Finishing UpNow that the hard part is done, let&apos;s take our coil hose and plumb it into the chuck. You can insert the coil hose into the chuck by pulling the collar back on the chuck, and pressing the 1/4&quot; quick connect stud into place. Release the collar on the air chuck to secure the hose in place. Finally, insert your tire inflation gun into the female end of the coil hose, and start filling up your tires.

How to: Install Tire Inflation Kit

Electric Drain Valve Kit. Includes:. Getting Started. Your electric drain valve kit will allow you to drain the moisture from your tanks with the push of a button. Let's start by locating our solenoid valve within the kit. This valve will need to be

Electric Drain Valve Kit<hr><img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/undefined-4657e68e-b4a7-4853-b992-3168595a8171" style="width: 475px;" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-fil">Includes:<ul><li style="font-size: 14px;">Stainless Steel 3/8&quot; solenoid valve (D)</li><li style="font-size: 14px;">Push Button (H)</li><li style="font-size: 14px;">2x 1/4&quot; NPT x 3/8&quot; PTC Fitting (A)</li><li style="font-size: 14px;">1x 3/8&quot; NPT x 3/8&quot; PTC Fitting (B)</li><li style="font-size: 14px;">3/8&quot; x 1/4&quot; Reducer Bushing (E)</li><li style="font-size: 14px;">10 Feet of 3/8&quot; air line&#xA0;</li><li style="font-size: 14px;">20 Feet of 18ga Wire (Blue roll above)</li><li style="font-size: 14px;">3/8&quot; PTC Union Tee (C)</li><li style="font-size: 14px;">4x 18ga. Butt Connectors (F)</li><li style="font-size: 14px;">18ga. Ring Terminal (G)</li></ul> <hr>Getting StartedYour electric drain valve kit will allow you to drain the moisture from your tanks with the push of a button.&#xA0;Let&apos;s start by locating our solenoid valve within the kit.<img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/undefined-658fc4ba-6982-4754-9a51-5241655d7be0" style="width: 300px;" class="fr-fic fr-dii"> This valve will need to be installed close enough to the air tanks so that we can run our air line to it from the drain ports on the tanks. The moisture will dump from the outlet side of this valve so you may want to point it down to the ground so that it isn&apos;t spraying towards the vehicle. At this point, we can go ahead and locate the 1/4&quot; NPT x 3/8&quot; PTC fittings. They should look like the image below:&#xA0; <img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/undefined-64a3cb34-f7fc-4e84-99c3-0c949863c3eb" style="width: 300px;" class="fr-fic fr-dii">These fittings MUST be plumbed into the bottom-most port on the tank. This is not always the port in between the legs of the tank. If you mount the tank sideways, this fitting would be plumbed into one of the ports facing down to the ground. This is essential for this kit to work, as gravity will pull the water to the bottom of the tank over time. If this fitting is mounted on the side of the tank, no water will come out when you press the button.&#xA0;<hr>PlumbingNow that we have the tank portion of this install taken care of, let&apos;s move onto the valve. We can now plumb the supplied 3/8&quot; NPT x 3/8&quot; PTC fitting (B) into the inlet portion of the valve. This is important because the valve is directional. If you plumb the inlet fitting to the wrong side, this valve will not hold pressure, and your tank will leak constantly. The inlet side of the valve can be found by simply looking at the valve itself. Cast onto the valve is an arrow. The airflow needs to go in the direction that the arrow points. The image below shows where you can usually find the arrow on these valves:&#xA0; <img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/undefined-2e6d49f3-2aac-42d3-b781-42ee7915f5c5" style="width: 500px;" class="fr-fic fr-dii"><img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/undefined-28b78102-efea-4682-8437-2560459bf032" style="width: 420px;" class="fr-fic fr-dii"> In this image, the arrow points towards&#xA0;the outlet on the valve. The arrow ALWAYS points towards the outlet on the valve. Take your 3/8&quot; NPT x 3/8&quot; PTC fitting and plumb it into the side of the valve that faces away from the arrow. At this point, we can now run two lengths of 3/8&quot; line from each tank into our tee fitting. We recommend using two 3&apos; sections of line for this connection. Plumb each line into tanks 1 &amp; 2 on your Dual Tank Spare Tire Delete Bracket. Plumb the opposite ends of each line into the tee fitting as shown below. Tanks 1 + 2 will plumb into the sides of the tee, and the middle portion of the tee will be used to connect the tee to our valve. Cut a section of 3/8&quot; line to go in between the tee fitting and the valve. Plumb the line into the tee, and then into the valve at the opposite end.&#xA0; <img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/undefined-3b9cfa3d-e109-4f20-b0b3-a57d5d05ba80" style="width: 300px;" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-fil"><hr>Finishing UpNow that our valve is in place and the line has been plumbed to it from the tank, we can use the supplied 3/8&quot; NPT x 1/4&quot; FNPT reducer bushing into the outlet portion of the valve. This will slow down the flow of air out of the valve so that you don&apos;t lose all of your air in the tank. At this point, you are done plumbing our drain valve kit, and the valve will need to be wired to our push-button.<hr>WiringThe drain valve will be wired to a push-button that can be pressed from the cab to release the moisture from the tank. The wiring for this valve is pretty straightforward.<img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/undefined-54ff842f-a58d-43ab-8531-4890b1eb5a1e" style="width: 500px;" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-fil">This valve has two leads that come off of it. It does not matter which wire you decide to use as the positive lead.Take one of the leads and route it over to the frame of the vehicle as a ground. Alternatively, you can run this to the negative terminal on the battery. The opposite lead can be run up to one lead on the push-button. Finally, take the opposite end of your push-button and route it to a fused power source capable of handling a 10A load or greater. If you are installing this drain valve with one of our kits, you could simply tie it into the same fuse connected to your battery that supplies the compressor with power. Once connected, press the button and listen for a &apos;click&apos; from the valve. The clicking sound indicates that it is working properly.Start your vehicle and pressurize the tank. You can test this valve by pressing the button a few times and checking to ensure air escapes from it when the button is pressed.Your drain valve kit is now installed and ready for use.

How to: Install Dual Tank Electric Drain Valve Kit

220 PSI Digital Air Gauge. Getting Started. Your digital air pressure gauge can be used to monitor the air pressure within your tank from the cab of the vehicle. Let's get started with the install process for this module. Prep. HornBlasters Digital A

220 PSI Digital Air Gauge<hr>Getting Started<img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/undefined-b9d1d40c-4465-4a35-913d-e94c434660e7" style="width: 539px;" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-fil">Your digital air pressure gauge can be used to monitor the air pressure within your tank from the cab of the vehicle. Let&apos;s get started with the install process for this module.<hr>PrepHornBlasters Digital Air Gauge is designed to fit in a 2&quot; hole. The gauge itself has a 2 1/16th&quot; diameter. If you have a gauge pod already set up for a 2&quot; gauge, you may skip straight to the plumbing section below.&#xA0;If not, we will need to make a mounting spot for this gauge. The easiest way to do this is with a hole saw. Milwaukee makes a great hole saw with a 2&quot; diameter. Check it out <a href="https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-2-in-Hole-Dozer-Bi-Metal-Hole-Saw-with-3-8-in-Arbor-Pilot-Bit-49-56-9667/202327737" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer"></a><a href="https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-2-in-Hole-Dozer-Bi-Metal-Hole-Saw-with-3-8-in-Arbor-Pilot-Bit-49-56-9667/202327737" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">here</a>. Once you have found a suitable location for your gauge, use the hole saw with a drill/driver to create a 2&quot; hole for our gauge. You can sand down the edges of the hole to make it flush/smooth, and move forward with the install process.<hr>PlumbingThe digital gauge comes with a sending unit that plumbs into the tank, as well as the gauge itself. The sending unit has a plug on the top that will accept our wiring harness for the gauge face.&#xA0;<img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/undefined-dbddaca5-870d-4646-8a59-1abf45b772f7" style="width: 125px;" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-fil"> The sending unit for the gauge has PTFE paste pre-applied for your convenience. We would not recommend using Teflon on this unit as bits and pieces of the tape can find it&apos;s way into the sending unit and may cause it to read inaccurately. This piece will be inserted into the tank with the help of a reducer bushing. If you are working with a 5-gallon tank, you will need a 1/2&quot; NPT x 1/8&quot; NPT reducer bushing. For 2-gallon tanks, a 1/4&quot; NPT x 1/8&quot; NPT reducer is necessary. Ensure that this sending unit is not overtightened, our recommended torque spec is 12 ~ 14 ft/lbs.Start by threading the reducer bushing into your tank. You can use any port other than the bottom-most port on the tank. Once the reducer has been threaded into the tank, slowly thread the gauge sending unit into the reducer bushing. The image below shows the sending unit threaded into both size reducers. <img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/undefined-6239f9c1-b961-4760-ae3c-cf5fa0653645" style="width: 300px;" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-fil">If your reducer bushing does not have red PTFE paste pre-applied, go ahead and wrap the male thread with Teflon tape. 3-4 clean wraps around the thread would be ideal. If you do too many, there&apos;s a chance that air can leak from in between the wraps of Teflon.&#xA0;<hr>WiringThankfully, this gauge is not that difficult to wire up. Let&apos;s start with harness #1. This harness has a plug that can be inserted into the sending unit threaded into the tank.&#xA0; <img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/undefined-10467e6c-8056-47d2-a221-d61a9e639b6b" style="width: 300px;" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-fil">Harness #1 has three wires. A green, brown, and black colored wire. These wires will be routed up towards the actual gauge itself, and will connect to harness #2. Go ahead and plug harness 1 into the sending unit, and begin routing the wiring harness up to the front of the vehicle. Now, let&apos;s grab harness #2 and go up to the gauge itself. <img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/undefined-59d2175a-1882-4552-b9b3-c14a91579c1d" style="width: 250px;" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-fil">Harness two can be plugged into the back of the gauge face. Take the excess wire from this harness and put it through the hole we created for our gauge. Route the plug from the inside of the hole and connect it to the gauge face. Leave the gauge out of the hole for now, for easy access. At this point, the leads from harness 1 &amp; harness 2 will need to meet somewhere in between the tank and the gauge. It is up to you as to where you would like to join these wires together. Harness 2 has six leads that come off of it. The Black wires can be joined together and MUST be grounded with the black wire that comes off the sending unit. You will have three black wires that ground together at one point. The yellow lead on this harness will route up to the battery Positive terminal. Alternatively, you could connect this lead to the output side of our fuse holder, to prevent any damage in the event a short is created. The red lead on this harness will connect to a key-power-on source, similar to the pressure switch that came with your kit. You can connect this lead to the same circuit as the pressure switch key-power-on wire if you desire. Otherwise, this wire must be connected to any circuit that is only on when the key is on, to prevent the gauge from draining your battery overnight. Before you connect the&#xA0;green/b<span id="isPasted" style="color: rgb(150, 75, 0); font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color: initial; float: none; display: inline !important;">rown&#xA0;wires together, route the&#xA0;green/brown&#xA0;wires from one harness through the supplied vinyl wire insulation. This is the small black plastic tube that came with the gauge. Go ahead and connect the&#xA0;green/brown&#xA0;wires together and slide the tubing over the exposed wire leads.<hr>Finishing upNow that our gauge has been wired up, we can move on to the last portion of the installation. Take a look at the back of the gauge itself. Above the wiring harness/plug is a small cover. You can remove this cover to gain access to two small switches. <img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/undefined-771054d7-2326-47c6-b42b-a66f2a0c80a7" style="width: 189px;" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-fil">Switch #1 (left) allows you to change whether or not the gauge displays in BAR or PSI.Switch #2 (right) allows you to change whether or not the gauge displays the battery voltage after turning the vehicle on. You can change these however you would like. We recommend keeping switch 1 in the &apos;ON&apos; (up) position so that the gauge displays PSI. BAR is another method of measuring pressure and 150 PSI is equal to 10.3421 BAR. If your gauge is only reading 10 PSI when full, it is likely reading BAR instead. Switch #2 is completely optional, as it will not change the way our gauge reads the pressure in the tank.Once your switches are set up the way you want, go ahead and mount our gauge into the hole we created during Step #1.&#xA0;<hr>Mounting the Gauge The gauge comes with a small set of mounting hardware.&#xA0;<img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/undefined-b420b28b-30e8-4447-ab76-4594dcf3964f" style="width: 300px;" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-fil">Start by taking the two bolts on the left, and thread the female end of each onto the studs located on the back of the gauge. <img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/undefined-307839bc-2906-4d86-b5b9-382ab60bace5" style="width: 300px;" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-fil">The end result will look like the image above. At this point, seat the gauge within the hole we made earlier. Ensure that it is oriented the way you want. Once the gauge has been seated into the hole, locate the plastic sleeve that came with the gauge. This sleeve will inserted over the gauge from the back, as shown in the image below. <img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/undefined-b32200cd-cbbc-4e2c-9b50-08420a4200e1" style="width: 300px;" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-fil">The flat side of this sleeve will go onto the gauge first, and will go up to the mounting surface you used for the gauge. At this point, take the small L-bracket and position it so that the ends stick towards the front of the gauge. Line up the holes with the two studs on the back of the gauge and press the bracket in place. Place one washer on each stud over the bracket, and secure the bracket tight with the two supplied nuts. The finished product should look like this from the back. <img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/undefined-9771a772-fafa-49e3-a057-db4166dc7ca8" style="width: 300px;" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-fil">The bracket will sandwich the gauge and the sleeve to the mounting surface you are using for the gauge. Ensure that both nuts are tight and secure once mounted.&#xA0;At this point, your digital gauge has been installed and is now ready for use.&#xA0;

How to: Install Digital Air Gauge

Overview. This brief article serves to explain how the tire inflation kit can be installed onto our 2MC kits. These kits feature our 2MC air source kit, a 2-gallon tank with an air compressor mounted on top of the tank. Let's get started. Parts Neede

OverviewThis brief article serves to explain how the tire inflation kit can be installed onto our 2MC kits. These kits feature our 2MC air source kit, a 2-gallon tank with an air compressor mounted on top of the tank. Let&apos;s get started.<hr>Parts Needed2MC Air Source Kit&#xA0;<img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/undefined-ba7cf5d3-f4b5-46cf-8ff7-a4ca3bf7f0e8" style="width: 300px;" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-fil">Tire Inflation Kit&#xA0;<img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/undefined-7ee08faf-c591-4b85-893b-9ce662b8c3d1" style="width: 300px;" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-fil"> Adjustable Wrench (or other wrench)<img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/undefined-9547ac31-a845-4dba-984d-731fd4a29c27" style="width: 300px;" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-fil">6.0mm Allen Wrench (9/16&quot; may be too small)<img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/undefined-70ea1a9e-fcb3-4aed-8304-3cb71f66aee4" style="width: 335px;" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-fil"> <hr>Getting StartedLet&apos;s get started by locating the 1/4&quot; flush-mount plug on the side of the tank. The plug can be found in between the safety blow-off and drain cock fittings. <img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/undefined-35129c06-7e0c-404d-bd3f-9cc5e0d4e269" style="width: 736px;" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-fil">Using the 6mm allen key, place the short end of the wrench into the hex key. This plug is sealed in with thread-locker and will be very tight. This is normal. Position the allen key so that it points towards the left, or #9 on a clock. You can use your hand or a rubber mallet for the next part. Hit the allen wrench downwards (towards the floor, or #6 on a clock)&#xA0;<span id="isPasted" style="color: rgb(65, 65, 65); font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color: initial; display: inline !important; float: none;">with some force. This will break the plug loose so that you can loosen it up easier. You may have to hit it a few times to break free. Once loose, continue to turn the plug counter-clockwise until it comes out of the tank.&#xA0;<hr>Plumbing (Tank Side)At this point, the hard work is over and the rest is fairly simple. Start by locating the two 1/4&quot; NPT x 1/4&quot; Compression fittings that came with the inflation kit.&#xA0; <img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/undefined-bdd17548-326a-4936-a10f-2eeece7fd850" style="width: 624px;" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-fil">These two fittings will be used to bring line out of the tank and into our air chuck. Let&apos;s start by plumbing one of these fittings into the tank.&#xA0; <img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/undefined-52f2c6f9-d938-47c4-b8d4-b7159b815bce" style="width: 358px;" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-fil">Make sure this fitting is plumbed in nice and tight. Use your adjustable wrench and rotate the fitting at least once clockwise to fully tighten it up. Go ahead and remove the ferrule (nut) from the fitting to expose the barb.<img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/IMG_2953-b3105142-92bd-4be8-948d-41ef01747b96.jpg" style="width: 358px;" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-fil">Take the nut and slide it over the air line before you press the line onto the barb fitting. Make sure the threaded side (female) of the nut is facing towards the fitting/tank.&#xA0;<img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/IMG_2954-9d607f44-f4c0-499d-b3d0-74e5491809e1.jpg" style="width: 358px;" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-fil">Firmly press the line over the barb fitting. Ensure the line is fully seated around the barb. You don&apos;t want it sitting on there halfway. The image below is a good example of how it should sit. <img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/IMG_2955-f375cb02-b690-4aad-b812-3b2080e66bfe.jpg" style="width: 358px;" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-fil">Go ahead and slide the nut up to the fitting. Tighten it up by hand, and use the adjustable wrench to finish tightening the fitting up. <img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/IMG_2960-335f94ae-c4aa-4cf7-991f-08ce6b5773de.jpg" style="width: 358px;" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-fil"><hr>Plumbing (Air Chuck)Let&apos;s start by putting this assembly together. Locate the L-shaped mounting bracket and air chuck. You will also need the second compression fitting. Check out the image below. These three pieces will go together in this order.<img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/undefined-8e4171b7-2a44-44af-abaf-afe71745fcf6" style="width: 375px;" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-fil">Plumb the compression fitting through the bracket and into the air chuck. Make sure to wrap the compression fitting with Teflon tape otherwise it will not tighten up into the chuck very well.<img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/IMG_2965-5d5347b9-d8d4-4b8c-8425-16077e78dc4f.jpg" style="width: 375px;" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-fil">The compression fitting will hold the chuck in place on your bracket. You may need to use an adjustable wrench to fully tighten the fitting up. At this point, go ahead and remove the nut from the compression fitting and plumb the line onto it similar to the tank.&#xA0;<img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/IMG_2966-23b655f7-30d2-4d62-9a96-09c9faf84191.jpg" style="width: 375px;" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-fil"><img src="https://uploads.gorgias.io/mJQz875pXo2adpn4/IMG_2967-fcbf6aad-021b-44b0-8d00-cea8136f3acd.jpg" style="width: 375px;" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-fil"> At this point you&apos;re almost done. Locate a suitable spot to mount your chuck, and use two screws through the bracket to secure the mount. Usually, the air chuck mounted on the bumper near the license plate for easy access. Your 30&apos; coil hose can be hooked up to this coupler to provide air for inflating tires, toys, or other inflatables.&#xA0;<hr>Having trouble? Drop us a line @ (877)-209-8179 or sales@hornblasters.com

Installing the Tire Inflation Kit w/ a 2MC Kit

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